How does Tretinoin in Dermatica work and how does it help acne?

Tretinoin is in the cream I’m getting in my personalised Dermatica subscription to fight hyperpigmentation/melasma on my forehead. It’s strong stuff, so I’ve researched it and thought I’d share my findings.

[Tretinoin is used for] Topical preparation to reduce hyperpigmentation of skin,
such as persistent freckles, dark marks (lentigines) or
melasma. Tretinoin works by increasing the skin cell turnover rate,
which helps exfoliate the skin and improve the signs of
photodamage.

from the leaflet in my Dermatica skincare subscription

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Is Tretinoin a retinol?

Retinol and tretinoin are both retinoids (vitamin A) but tretinoin is more concentrated and can give quicker results. It can also aggravate the skin more quickly as it’s stronger.

When I started my personalised Dermatica subscription in May, the cream included 0.025%, and it took me two more months to reach 0.05%.

Unlike retinol, which is available online, Tretinoin can only be obtained via prescription. It’s strong stuff and should be used with care and sparingly!

Being careful with retinoids

As with any intense skin care product, such as retinoids, I take it daily, depending on how my skin feels. My skin became irritated using tretinoin daily, so I stopped using it for a few days. I reintroduced it after a week, and I went down to every other day.

Are there any side effects of using tretinoin?

As it exfoliates the skin, too much can irritate it. I moisturise with two moisturisers after using it. If you are new to tretinoin or have dry skin, I wouldn’t use it much at all for several weeks then slowly build up.

I took a break from Dermatica skincare in August of last year because I had been using too much, and my skin felt tight and irritated. I wouldn’t say I have sensitive skin, but I felt like my skin needed a break. I’m back on it now, but I use it sparingly. I previously used it daily, but now I use it three times per week.

How does Tretinoin help acne?

Tretinoin works by increasing the skin cell turnover rate,

I have an oily forehead. I wasn’t exfoliating it enough, so I had a build-up of dead skin cells just sitting there, causing havoc with acne. People with oily skin don’t lose dead skin cells like those without.

Skin cells drop off you all the time in daily life, but this doesn’t work so well if you have oily skin, as dead skin can’t drop off as it’s being clung to. Oily skin needs some help, which is where good old exfoliation comes into play (but not too much).

I exfoliate with The Ordinary AHA BHA solution twice a week generally but that can change depending on how my skin feels.

What does Tretinoin do to the skin?

It treats skin conditions such as acne, scarring and hyperpigmentation. It helps to exfoliate the skin so although it helps with skin renewal, it can irritate because it’s so intense.

Tretinoin is a potent topical form of Vitamin A that’s commonly used to treat acne, reduce fine lines, and improve skin texture. It works by speeding up cell turnover, helping to unclog pores, and boosting collagen production. Over time, it can improve skin tone, reduce hyperpigmentation, and soften wrinkles.

Tretinoin with Hydroquinone

According to the leaflet I got with my Dermatica subscription, they go very well together.

Topical preparation to reduce hyperpigmentation of skin, such as persistent freckles, dark marks (lentigines) or melasma. Tretinoin works by increasing the skin cell turnover rate, which helps exfoliate the skin and improve the signs of photodamage. Hydroquinone is a depigmenting agent that interrupts the production of melanin pigment to help lighten the skin. Combining these active substances can help target and improve different skin concerns simultaneously.

Info from a leaflet in my Dermatica subscription

Using other skincare products

When I use tretinoin, I avoid acids such as salicylic acid or ascorbic acid (vitamin C) unless it’s in the morning and at a different time.

I moisturise my skin with Malezia moisturiser (fungal acne-safe) and FaceTheory Supergel, and I use high SPF (Dermatica) to give my skin as much protection as possible.

I use it in the evening before I go to bed. I put the cream on, then wait a few minutes (normally I clean my teeth) then I follow up with 2 moisturisers.

Since May, each monthly subscription has included Tretinoin and I’ve seen continuous improvements to my melasma.

What skincare are you using?

I’ve been using Dermatica for melasma since May 2023 and I’m happy with the results. I started to see results after 1-2months, with quite dramatic results after 3 months. See my full article on my experience with Dermatica here.